Return to Champagne

This past week saw the arrival of my girlfriends from college. After a few cancelled flights and lost luggage, Amanda, Molly and Nicole were prepared to take Europe by storm. Their itinerary was a harrowing one for one week -- Brussels, Paris, Champagne and the coup d'etat, a road trip from Brussels to Munich to experience the one and only Oktoberfest.

As I only have so many vacation days left, my plan was to see the girls off on their day trips to Paris and Champagne and then join them for Oktoberfest. But who am I kidding? I may be able to resist another trip to Paris, but if you dangle Champagne in front of me, my will power collapses. On Wednesday morning, we set off for Champagne to tour a couple of champagne houses and most importantly for me, purchase more bottles from the petit maisons of the region to experience all Champagne has to offer.

Me, Nicole, Amanda and Molly sampling the goods at Pommery

We didn't get on the road as early as expected (a combination of jet lag and wine tasting that warranted extra sleep) so we only had the chance to visit one champagne house -- Pommery. While I am a big fan of Pommery (especially their Bland de Noir), the tour can best be described as odd. Apparently, Madame Pommery was quite the art enthusiast. Therefore, they've turned the cellars into an extensive modern art exhibit. Pommery = short on detailed information about the champagne-making process, long on progressive, interactive art pieces. If the tour represented Madame Pommery's life, I can't help but believe it was pretty idyllic.

164 steps to the bottom of the cave. Good thing they only gave us one glass of champagne prior to the tour.

So we toured Pommery, visited the Cathedral at Reims (see my previous post on Champagne for pics), and did a little champagne shopping. I should be able to host a few nice champagne tastings in the coming months.

When leaving Champagne, buckle up for safety! No drink driving allowed!

I'm still alive ... Brussels hasn't done me in yet

A month? Really? It has been a month since my last post? Apologies to those of you who've been following Mogo A Go-Go. Things have been hectic here in cold, rainy northern Europe this September, with lots of visits from family and friends from the States and my general dedication to having as much fun as possible while I'm here. I've been here almost 4 months. Yikes! Only two more to go ...




So where did we leave off? After meeting Mom and Dad in Paris the first weekend of September, I got to host them here in Brussels the following weekend. We had surprisingly good weather (most of the time) for their visit. We did the hop-on, hop-off bus tour of Brussels, visited the medival wonderland of Bruges, and had some really delicious meals everywhere we went. For those of you who've seen In Bruges ... yes, I climbed to the top of the tower in Bruges' town square and lived to tell the tale. Fortunately for me, there were no British gangsters trying to kill each other on the very narrow, very winding staircase up the tower. [Note to those you you haven't seen In Bruges: Put it in your Netflix queue tout de suite. Highly entertaining flick and one of Ralph Fiennes most surprising roles.] Anyways, it was awesome to have my parents come visit and cool to know that they've now gotten to visit Europe!



One of the highlights of September in Belgium is that muscles are now in season. I'm eating them as often as possible. And yes, they're way better here than they are in the U.S. Of course, I am looking forward to re-testing the muscles at Brasserie Beck once I'm back in D.C.

My lovely pot of muscles serves as both dinner and a refreshing steam.

Why is Patsy in Norway?

I am watching a BBC special where Joanna Lumley (aka Patsy Stone) goes to Norway to see the Northern Lights. Why? Britain is seriously starving for people to put on TV. I am moving there and becoming a famous TV presenter. She did just say though, "If there is one word associated with Norway, it is FJORD." I couldn't agree more, Pats.

Go on, have a lovely drink, have a lovely ciggie. It is cold up there!

Mom and Dad in Paris!

For someone who tends to expect the unexpected, I can safely say I never expected for my parents to go on a trip to Europe ... much less to be there to meet them when they got there. But that is exactly what happened on Saturday. After they spent four days in London, I hopped the Thalys (only and hour and 20 minutes from Brussels!) and met them in Paris!!!!

I wish I had pictures ... looks like I am going to have to buy a new camera ... but those will come later once my mom sends me her photos. I arrived at my parent's hotel (about a 10 minute walk to the Eiffel Tower) around 2 and expected them to be waiting. But alas, no sign of the Golgas. So I sat down at the bar and enjoyed a glass of champagne while I waited. I can't tell you how excited I was when, out of the corner of my eye, I saw my dad walk across the hotel lobby. The bartender thought I was crazy when I shrieked and ran out of the bar, all of my stuff still sitting there. It was excellent to see them. Surreal, but excellent. It was too late for lunch so we headed off for a river boat tour of the Seine. The tour was relaxing and the weather was beautiful so we enjoyed it immensely. And after relaxing at the hotel a bit, we had dinner at my favorite restaurant in Paris (thank your Mr. Rosenberg), Le Petit Marche. When I ate there a few weeks ago with Jim and Sheelah, I knew I would have to take my parents there. My mom loves nothing more than a great creme brullee, and I swore it was the best I've ever had. My mom agreed. We had an amazing dinner. The food was splendid; the staff was super friendly and welcoming; and it was great to spend time with my mom and dad in Paris.

My curse of no sleep in Paris marches on though ... last time I was allergic to the bedsheets, this time I was allergic to my mom and dad's snoring. It was a struggle to get out of bed this morning but while mom and dad were out on their bus tour, I walked down the Seine to the Musee d'Orsay, home to the great Impressionist and Post-Impressionist painters and sculptures. I always find it odd when tourists take pictures of themselves in front of famous painters but alas, it was very enjoyable. I had a quick lunch with mom and dad before they headed off for a tour of Versailles and then I walked and did a bit of shopping (Brussels does not have a Sephora ... I've got to visit them when I have a chance). One Croque Madame and a beer later, I got on the train and am now back in Brussels. Mom and dad have another day in Paris and then are off to Amsterdam before they come to Brussels next weekend. I've already got lots of stuff planned so I hope it is as fun as I imagine!

In the land of Gary Shields

About a week ago, I had the amazing opportunity to go to Oslo for work. I've actually dreamt of going to Norway my whole life. In the third grade, I wrote a report about Norway and once I landed in Oslo, I was surprised about how much I remembered. Most important thing to know about Norway -- fjords! That's it people. Fjords. They rule. Oh, and avoid shrimp and mayonaise sandwiches. They smell terrible.

After three days of working pretty much non-stop at the conference I was in town for, Rebecca and I got to go sightseeing. We spent a beautiful Saturday afternoon wandering the city, shopping and taking breaks in gorgeous little cafes. Before dinner, we sat out at a bar in the harbor, drank wine and enjoyed the view. Then we trekked to an adorable little neighborhood and had tapas for dinner. On Sunday, we took a cruise on the fjord and visited both the Nobel Peace Center and the Munch Museum (The Scream). It was a bit cold and rainy but we still had a great day. Unfortunately, my camera seems to have disappeared so pics from the trip are forthcoming ... once Rebecca gets her film developed (yes, she has a regular, old-fashioned camera and it is lovely).

So after five days, my assessment of Oslo is that it is the northern European equivalent of Madison, Wisconsin. I mean that in a good way. It is quaint. It is beautiful. It is clean. The people are friendly. And you totally feel like you are in the U.S. The only thing separating it from Madison is a lack of bacon, beer and cheese at every turn. Also, I believe that Madison likely has better coffee than Oslo. There really is no excuse for it, but I do not believe that I've ever been consistently served worse coffee than when I was in Oslo. I actually paid for a saucer-sized bowl of coffee at 9 pm that clearly was brewed at 9 am and reheated in the microwave. Disgusting.

I'd love to go back to Norway and see more of the country. I highly recommend it ... very green, lots of water, lovely people.

Next entry ... Mama and Papa Golga in Paris!!!! They are in London as I type this (I believe just back from Bath and Stonehenge)!!!! I'm getting on a train tomorrow morning to meet them in Paris. It is going to be surreal but so much fun.

Paris, Paris, Paris, Paris ... How Many Times Must I Type It to Show I Love It?

So all I've been hearing since I've moved to Brussels is: "Paris is only an hour twenty on the train." Clearly, everyone here in Brussels great appreciates its strategic traveling location, just as I do. With Sheelah here to visit, we decided it would be a good idea to hop on the Thalys and head to Paris for the weekend.

Beautiful sculpture and flowers in the Jardin du Luxembourg on the Left Bank

After enjoying the free wine and food on the first class train (summer sale ... actually cheaper than second), we arrived to a gorgeous Friday afternoon in Paris. Lovely, warm, sunny ... so much nicer than we expected. Once we checked into our hotel on the Left Bank, we strolled through the Jardin du Luxembourg and then headed to Notre Dame to meet Jim, my fancy-schmancy friend who just happened to be spending an entire week in Paris for work (I am seriously jealous of him and his work travel, if you must know. Next stop - Croatia!). We met Jim and headed toward the Centre Pompidou to sit at a cafe and people watch. I didn't take any pictures, but trust me, if you are in Paris, go there to people watch. It is great. Also, we had this awesome smoked salmon on pancakes with creme fresh. It may sound odd but it was delicious. The Parisian version of bagels and lox.

Their future is so bright, they've gotta wear shades. Does anyone else remember that episode of Head of the Class where they made a music video to that song? I always think of that when I hear that song.

And then came my favorite part of the day ... the most awesome Parisian celebrity sighting ever. Yes, when we were over in the Left Bank having drinks and dinner, I looked up and saw Julie Delpy walk by. I love Julie Delpy. I love Before Sunrise and Before Sunset. I love 2 Days in Paris. And as Amanda knows, I love Killing Zoe. I couldn't think of a better celebrity sighting to have in Paris. Maybe Carla Bruni? But really, I love Julie Delpy so I was super excited.

Bonjour, Julie! If only you were still dating the Hebrew Hammer ... dare to dream.

So what to do after dinner in Paris? Visit the Eiffel Tower, of course! La Tour was beautiful, lit up to celebrate the EU (Sarko is really enjoying the EU French Presidency). We took pics, had a lovely after dinner drink in the Trocadero, and made our way home to prepare for a full Saturday in Paris. The pics didn't come out super well, so I can't show you La Tour. But here is a pic of me and Sheelah.

So the rest of the weekend was fun, but also a comedy of errors. We saw a cool exhibit of Richard Avedon photos; had drinks at Le Fumoir with my colleague James and his girlfriend Sabine (she lives in Paris ... again, jealous); and had one of the best meals I've ever had at a tiny little bistro near Place des Vosges. I also ran into a poll while reading a map and have the most disgusting bruise ever; was allergic to the sheets on my bed and had to sleep on the floor to stop itching; and had a panic attack on the ferris wheel in the Tuilleries (note to self: ferris wheels scare you to death ... DO NOT RIDE). But other than that, Paris is great fun. Can't wait to go back to meet my Mom and Dad there in two and half weeks! I leave you with my favorite statue in Jardin du Luxembourg.

If I am so pretty, why am I made of stone?

A Cultural Tradition: The Flower Carpet

On Thursday, Sheelah arrived for a week-long visit from NYC. And she was just in time to see one of the most famous events in Brussels ... the Flower Carpet. Every other year, for one weekend only, they cover the Grand Place in this amazing carpet of flowers.

On the night it opens (which was this past Thursday), there is a big "opening ceremony." We missed the fireworks display, but we were there to see the light show synchronized with classical music. It was pretty cool ... and pretty lucky that it happened this year so that we were able to see it.

We were trying to figure out how all the flowers remain in place, but when you look closer, you see that it is petals, not full flowers. But again, still no clue how it stays down. That doesn't matter though ... it is still pretty impressive.